Tenzo Note 12: Fermenting Culture

I have always been inspired by the mystery of living transformation in the kitchen. It was in Japan, thanks to a shamanic baker and peace activist, that I first delved into the depths of this world. His name is Junpei, and he owns the Paradise Alley bakery in Kamakura.

To describe Junpei, I would say that he is a bearer of bacterias (the friendly kind!), often playing music around a pizza oven in Iwashi, built with his activist and musician friends in a land devastated after Fukushima, where many chose not to leave. Otherwise, he is in his bakery, surrounded by his employees, most of them misfits of the social system to which it provides the opportunity to regenerate with their “amino san” brothers and sisters (amino acids) .

Junpei became a baker naturally, his mother being a great cook, he always knew that stoves were a part of his life. But it's fermentation that fascinated him and led him to choose the path of bread. Putting ferment in the dough and letting it rise to create bread is a concept he associates with culture. It's like putting ferment into a country through music, painting, and cooking, which gives the country its uniqueness. He thinks that our leaders are not vigilant enough about the ferments they choose because some bacteria create life, and others kill it. Being careful about what we put in our lives is also important - it's the culture of oneself.

Culture, for Junpei, is a concept that relates to life and its ability to grow. And because everything starts with ferments in Japan, Junpei makes a delicious fermented juice : the Kosou juice. He puts all fresh fruits and seasonal leaves, konbu, sugar or molasses (10 to 11 parts sugar for a syrup, less for a juice), and lets it ferment for two weeks. He uses it in summer on kakidori (shaved ice) or as a syrup with water.

He also explained to me the "nyusankin" fertilizer. This technique is still widely used by the elders in the countryside. In Okinawa, they put rice in the forest and wait for it to mold, add water and molasses, rice bran (komenuka), and wait for two weeks before sprinkling it on the soil. 

To know more about Junpei and his bread and post-nuclear peace work, here is a very nice article with many photos. 

Having kept in mind for many years the amino san spirit that Junpei shared with me, and thanks to this Fall residency, I have begun with Janna, Tenzo companion, to give birth to this culture of kinship with all beings here at the Bergerac hub, and we have created many 'babies'! Kimchi, black radishes, kosou juice, fermented beets, millet cheese – all of these accompany the big brother of our Praxis Food Lab: the Miso.

To know  more, here's a brief overview of why humanity has been fermenting food for millennia.

• Preservation: Fermentation has historically been used as a method of food preservation. The fermentation process creates an environment that inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria while promoting the growth of beneficial microorganisms like lactic acid bacteria. This helps extend the shelf life of foods, allowing them to be stored for longer periods without spoilage.

• Flavor Enhancement: Fermentation contributes unique and complex flavors to foods. The breakdown of sugars and other compounds during fermentation produces various byproducts, such as organic acids, alcohols, and aromatic compounds. These compounds contribute to the distinct tastes and aromas associated with fermented foods, making them appealing to the palate.

• Nutrient Enrichment: Fermentation can enhance the nutritional value of certain foods. The process can increase the availability of certain nutrients, such as B vitamins and certain minerals, and can also break down compounds that might inhibit nutrient absorption.

• Digestibility: Fermentation breaks down complex molecules into simpler forms, making the resulting foods more easily digestible. For example, lactose in milk is broken down during fermentation, making fermented dairy products like yogurt more tolerable for individuals who are lactose intolerant.

• Probiotic Content: Fermented foods often contain live beneficial bacteria, known as probiotics. These microorganisms can have positive effects on the gut microbiota, promoting digestive health and supporting the immune system.

• Cultural and Culinary Diversity: Fermentation is a technique used in the preparation of a wide range of foods and beverages across different cultures. It plays a crucial role in the development of unique and region-specific culinary traditions, contributing to the diversity of global cuisine.

• Bread and Dough Leavening: In the context of baking, fermentation is crucial for leavening dough. The action of yeast or lactic acid bacteria produces carbon dioxide, causing the dough to rise. This process gives bread its characteristic texture and structure.

• Fermented Beverages: Fermentation is essential in the production of various beverages, including beer, wine, and certain types of tea. The transformation of sugars by yeast or other microorganisms not only produces alcohol but also imparts distinct flavors and characteristics to the beverages.

In summary, fermentation is a versatile and ancient culinary technique that contributes to the preservation, flavor, nutrition, and digestibility of a wide variety of foods. Its significance extends beyond the kitchen, playing a role in cultural traditions, culinary innovation, and the development of diverse and flavorful cuisines around the world.

And as Junpei would say, it is a gift from life that regenerates soils, ourselves and our cultures for a better world!